Dashed lines for porch beams above should run between columns, not entire length of porch, so that dash pattern centers on column space.
Center of toilet to nearest wall: 18"
Center of pedestal lavatory to nearest wall: 15" unless it's an oversized lavatory, in which case, do what makes sense.
Chamfers on 4" nominal posts are 3/4"; chamfers on 6" nominal posts are 1"; chamfers on 8" nominal posts are 1-1/4".
A plan view of a chamfered post should show both the chamfered section you're cutting through and the square section below on the Miscellaneous Plan Items layer. Only the section you're cutting through shows on the Profile Lines layer and the Wall Blockouts layer.
Profile lines inside of screen on screened porches are .35mm. In other words, treat it like interior space.
Profile lines should always be a single polygon from end to end simply because it's easier to manipulate that way, rather than having a bunch of little line segments.
Floor Plan Final notes are Times 9 point, except for door & window sizes, which are the same but italic. Floor Plan Presentation notes are Bembo SCTT 9 point.
I have switched bring to front, send to back, bring forward, send backward, zoom in, zoom out, full size, and fit to screen commands to be the same as they are in Adobe products.
Lines from notes to objects noted are .045mm bezier curves with standard filled arrowhead.
Note column types & sizes on floor plan.
Always check all comments layers before printing anything to make sure there's nothing left to do.
Always turn off Title Block layer before doing Black Color for All because some of the lines on the Title Block layer are grey, and should remain that way.
When placing the building on the site plan, start on the first level floor plan with the Floor Plan Presentation sheet layers turned on. Then turn off the text and furniture. Next, cut on the Floor Plan Area layer. Copy everything. Go to the site plan and paste To Scale and At Mouse. Change all lineweights of what you just pasted to .13 mm. Now, you'll just need to adjust the area polygon to include the window sills so it doesn't look weird. It'll take just 2-3 minutes to run around the entire plan (unless it's immense) but it creates a much more professional-looking drawing. So do it. Next, change the area fill to Grey #3 (two notches lighter than 50% grey; it's 12-1/2% grey, FWIW.) Now, select all of the floor plan elements (including the now-grey area polygon. Group them so it's easier to move it as a single element. Put it in the right place on the site, and on the Buildings & Outbuildings layer.
The back-most item on any door or window symbol should be a white-filled polygon (if all of the edges are straight) or bezier (if any of the edges are curved, like happens when the cap detail includes a curved molding of some sort.) The white-filled polygon or bezier obscures the wall poche below (brick lines, siding lines, etc.) so that you can move or delete a door or window without having to worry about cutting, trimming, or healing the wall poche.
Door and window symbols should be drawn on two layers: the Drawing Layer and the Surface Lines layer. As usual, the Drawing Layer is for anything that breaks a plane (makes a displacement of depth from one side of the line to the other.) The Surface Lines layer is for anything where there's just a surface break, like the edge of a chamfer, where the surface turns but doesn't displace. Surface Lines should generally be .045 mm, except for siding poche on a frame building. This is because there is a 5/16" break at the bottom of a siding board, so it needs to be .13 mm because it breaks a plane. But on the other hand, since it's a wall poche (and there are usually a lot of them) it's far cleaner to handle them on the Surface Lines layer even though they're not a true surface line (surface break only, no displacement.)
On an elevation drawing, always show all floor levels and plate lines as .13mm dashed lines on the Comments layer. Do NOT delete these lines... ever!
On a floor plan drawing, always lay out the plan with .13mm solid lines on the Building Layout layer. Do NOT delete these lines... ever!
If you're revising a simple rectangular building, it may be easier to make all the revisions on one side elevation, then copy that and flip it to create a new elevation of the other side, then make minor modifications there, rather than trying to make all the same modifications (in reverse) on the second elevation.
Keep the lowest-hanging portion of foundation lattice or screens 6" above grade. This is known as a "cat-saver" because cats can run underneath but dogs cannot. It's also a good policy because it keeps wood away from grade, where it would be more likely to rot. Mulch is notorious for filling the gap, hence the 6" gap.
On elevations, .25mm profile lines occur where surfaces break at least 6" but less than 6'. .35mm profile lines occur where surfaces break at least 6' but less than 25'. .5mm profile lines occur where surfaces break more than 25'. The ground line should be shown as a .7mm profile line.
Show grade visibly sloping away from the building on all sides on elevation, beginning at the edge of the building.
On an elevation, no line should occur on the Profile Lines layer that doesn't also occur on the Drawing Layer. The profile lines are exactly that... profiles of lines below. When you turn that layer off, you should still be able to see the entire drawing.
Building sections are drawn to illustrate the relationship of major elements of the building. Dimension floor to plate height, floor system depth, roof slope, etc., but do not dimension small items like roof overhangs.
Arbitrary dimensions anywhere on a drawing are intolerable! Some dimensions will be gobbledygook (arbitrary) because of geometry, but nothing should be placed anywhere on a drawing at all without having a precise reason for its location. This means that you should be able to click on any object in a drawing except one that is on an angle or that is a bezier curve or text, and if you click into the edit box, you should get even-inch or fractional dimensions, not decimal gobbledygook. This is HUGELY important because inaccuracies breed. If you're using a drawing component over and over on a number of jobs, after awhile, there won't be any dimensions on it you can trust. So be intolerant with gobbledygook from the beginning, or you'll be overcome with it in the end.
Don't group things unnecessarily... only group them if you have a really good reason. The best reason is if it makes the drawing more accurate, or speeds up the drawing process in some way.
In wall sections, overhang dimensions should go to face of sheathing, which should be in place by the time the rafter tails are cut. Draw 1/2" sheathing. Show dimension, both horizontally and vertically, between top outside corner of sheathing and top outside corner of rafter. Dimension everything else from these two points.
All sorts of speed can accrue when things are where you expect them to be on the page. It is essential to align things with where they belong in the modules. Text should always be in the text slot, for example. The first level floor line should always be in the center of the bottom module occupied by the wall section. The left side of the wall (finish surface) should always be at the centerline of the left module (if more than one) of the wall section. If you do these things, then you can duplicate stuff back and forth between various wall sections on the page without stopping to measure to see how far apart they are because you already know. Also, it makes for a much cleaner-looking drawing.
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